The Aqua Natco technology is presented as a first technique in a market driven by consumer demand for alternative fragrances, alcohol-free, of natural origin and with low environmental impact. Expressions Parfumées wanted to meet this demand and that of its customers by developing a new technology adapted to 100% COSMOS compositions.
” When working in natural origin perfumery in water, there are two major problems. The biggest is solubility, a perfume being mainly made up of lipophilic raw materials. The second is the solvation  to obtain a homogeneous and transparent liquid perfume explains Jennifer Buzzi, Development & Innovation Manager.
The load in water of a perfume composed of materials of natural origin was, until now, limited to low dosages of the order of 1 to 3%. Today, the Aqua Natco system allows a high perfume dosage of around 10%, a classic concentration in fine perfumery. By responding to the problems of solubility and solvation, Aqua Natco also makes it possible to work with an unlimited olfactory palette, to obtain perfectly transparent aqueous solutions.
An unexplored combination of solvents of natural origin
As perfumery raw materials are not always in liquid form – they can be powders, resins or crystals – obtaining a homogeneous and transparent perfume requires the use of solvents. Moreover, certain raw materials of natural origin, in particular citrus essential oils, are not very compatible with the existing solvents of natural origin. ” In COSMOS-certified perfumery, there are very few solvents and the most effective in water solubilization are the least effective in solvation with these raw materials. “says the manager.
The solution developed by Expressions Parfumées consists of a mixture of two solvents, one of which is frequently used in cosmetics but very little in perfumery, accompanied by a new solubilization system. ” There is really a synergy between the two solvents which makes it possible to solve the problems of solvation and solubilization. And everything is COSMOS-certifiedfragrances, solubilizers, preservatives and solvents adds Jennifer Buzzi.
The product resulting from this technology is presented under the name of AquaBoost Natco. He must be diluted 30% in water. In this 30% are 10% extract and 20% technology. ” We are the first to have developed the solution to add up to 10% natural origin fragrance to the water. It is also a turnkey technology. We sell a perfume ready to be diluted in water. Either the customer buys it to make his own dilution and adds his own preservative, or we take care of everything “says Jennifer Buzzi.
Performance that rivals alcoholic flavors
According to tests carried out by Expressions Parfumées, Aqua Natco technology offers equal or even better olfactory performance than alcoholic versions.
” We have carried out tests on perfumes from different olfactory families and have observed very good performance over time. 93% of the intensity is retained after 4 hours and 85% after 24 hours. Moreover, in comparison with alcohol, from the application, we have the same intensity, even better according to the perfumes. “, assures the manager.
In terms of turbidity (a measure of cloudiness), Aqua Natco fragrances have an index of up to 7 FNU on a scale starting from zero to signify transparency, to 200 to indicate opacity.
Finally, according to a life cycle analysis carried out by the firm Evea, taking up 16 environmental indicators ranging from the extraction of raw materials to the end of their life, the Aqua Natco technology allows a lower impact of 6% compared to a Cologne alcoholic.